First Impressions

I know the stock map of Jordan (thank-you University of Texas) is kind of lame, but I haven't taken too many pictures yet. There are government buildings pretty much everywhere, and the pervasive security personnel don't like people photographing the facilities. As I get a better feel for the rules, I'll try to get more pictures up.

I've spent a little less than three days in-country, so I can't (or rather won't) speak too authoritatively about the general lay of the land. I'm settled into my apartment, more or less, a studio that is a little dated, but comfortable. I have air conditioning, internet access, and 200 channels of satellite TV, so I can't complain too much.  Besides Arabic soaps, the local equivalent of public access, and what appear to be televised fund raisers from the Gulf, I get English-language MTV Arabia (which is basically a more R&B-heavy version of U.S. MTV), CNN, BBC International, and al Jazeera International. The latter two stations are probably the most useful.  

Some initial first impressions of Amman:

• The climate is certainly hot, but only a little more so than home.  It's fairly dry as well, with a slight breeze that somewhat ameliorates heat.  As I understand it, July and August are supposed to be beastly, while fall is rather pleasant.

• I tend to shun the terms "third world" or "developing country," as I think both are fairly condescending, western-centric, and simplistic.  Lacking a better alternate descriptor, it's sufficient to say though that Amman is a city undergoing massive development.  Pretty much everywhere you look (at least in the western half of the city), there are vacant lots and new construction.  The whole city is a fairly uniform, white limestone color, which makes for great scenic views.                        

• The city operates in a consistent state of organized chaos. If you want things done, it helps to know the right people. As far as driving goes (which I haven't attempted), people use the car horn as a means of general communication. The lane markings merely provide suggested guidance (this isn't necessarily wholly unlike home).     

• The city's development (and the chaos) are in large part driven by a constant historical influx of outsiders. Palestinians following 1948, Lebanese since the civil war of the 70s and the 2006 war with Israel, and a huge influx of Iraqis since 2003. This has has had a mixed bag of effects on the local economy, as well as strained infrastructure and social dynamics.  It makes for a very interesting and diverse city culture though. The population is officially a bit over 6 million, but if one counts refugees, it's considerably larger. The majority are concentrated in and around Amman.           

• Socially, Amman is incredibly diverse.  It has its conservative side (concentrated in East Amman), as well as a a more liberal and heavily western-influenced side (West Amman), and everything in between.  The social divisions seems to be based on economics, more than anything else. 

As I noted, these are just first impressions.  My perceptions may very likely change over the coming months.   

I still owe you all an update regarding my recent trip to Istanbul, so that will probably constitute my next post.

Vaya en Paz.  Or more appropriately, As-Salamu Alaykum.